AQHA - Get Started in Dressage

Want to do well in Dressage? I am available for lessons, clinics, consultations.

"Kathleen accentuates the positive for both horses and riders and her training methods are specifically designed to bring teams to their full potential by customizing training plans and focusing on training exercises that best benefit each individual team.

Known for her originality, creativity and flexibility in training, Kathleen specializes in everything from training and handling skills to behavior challenges. All breeds, personalities and skill levels are welcomed including handlers and/or horses with physical limitations. Kathleen encourages students to work outside their comfort zone for enhanced learning and utilizing skills that best fit the needs of each team. Keeping the focus on fun, play and praise, Kathleen's enthusiasm for training is contagious and all efforts of both horse and rider are rewarded.

Kathleen is passionate about helping people create healthier, happier relationships with their horses and wants to help you improve your relationship and connection with your horse. Kathleen's goal is to educate each client on what truly motivates their horse and what quickly and humanely gets results."
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From AQHA via Facebook
Want to try this sport with your Quarter Horse? Here are some tips.

It’s official! Starting in January, dressage will be an official AQHA event — one in which you can earn AQHA points, qualify for Incentive Fund bucks and compete for great year-end awards!

Interested in getting your American Quarter Horse started in dressage? The year-long series in America’s Horse, which began with the January-February issue, will be a great start. And for more information, “The USDF Guide to Dressage” is a wonderful resource, explaining the sport and competition from the ground up. It’s available at amazon.com and other online booksellers. Below is an excerpt from the book, written by Jennifer O. Bryant:

At some point in your dressage studies, you might get bitten by the competitive bug and yearn to test your skills at a show. You also might recognize that competition is an excellent way to get an expert’s impartial assessment of where you are in your training, as well as a road map for your continuing education. Even if you have no desire to compete, you might attend a dressage show and discover the unique learning opportunities that come from being a spectator.

Whatever the case, it’s helpful to understand how dressage shows are run and what the riders are doing.

Dressage Letters From A to X

A standard dressage arena is 20 by 60 meters. The letters around the perimeter of the arena are displayed on markers of various styles, customarily black type against a white background. In an outdoor arena, the markers may be attached to metal stakes that are driven into the ground, or they might be freestanding white pylons. Upscale shows tend to use fancier markers, such as tall box planters, with letters painted on the side and attractive flower arrangements on top. In indoor arenas, flat letter markers are usually nailed to the walls at the appropriate locations.

The letters along the center line – D, L X, I and G – are not posted in the arena itself, because that’s where you’re riding. However, the letters for the center line are frequently listed on the letter markers for the perimeter. The perimeter letter is large, and the centerline letter is smaller and set beneath.

There’s only one way in and out of a dressage arena at a show, and that’s the opening at A. At large shows, volunteers stand a discreet distance away from A and place a section of arena rail across the opening to close it off after the horse enters the arena; they remove it to let the horse exit after the test is completed. At smaller snows, the opening remains throughout.

Make your dressage points go farther. Enroll your Quarter Horse in AQHA’s Incentive Fund and watch the rewards roll in.

Most dressage shows have only one judge per class. A single judge always sits at C (technically, the judge sits behind C, allowing room for a horse to pass between the rail and herself) because this position affords the best view and perspective of the entire arena. At some larger shows and in certain higher-level classes, more than one judge views each class; the head judge always sits at C. In a three-judge panel, the judges are seated at H, C and B, or at E, C and M. The largest classes, such as at the Olympic Games and other international competitions, require panels of five judges; the judges sit at C, H, M, E and B.

A Fat Black Mare Can Hardly Ever Kick

This silly saying is a mnemonic device for remembering the major dressage letters at the endpoints, corners and midpoints of the arena. Beginning at A and working your way counterclockwise (on the left rein) around the arena, you’ll pass F, B, M, C, H, E and K. There are other mnemonics, but “Fat Black Mare” was the first one I learned, and it stuck. Feel free to substitute another one or make up your own.

It’s easy to remember where X is because it’s the center point of the arena. Every test or competition dressage ride begins and ends with a halt and a salute to the judge or ground jury (panel of judges). X is where most such halts and salutes are designated to occur.

The in-between letters (P,R,S and V around the perimeter of the arena and D, L, I and G on the centerline) aren’t associated with any mnemonic devices that I’m aware of, so when the time comes, you’ll just have to pound those letters into memory. They are seldom used in the lowest-level tests, so you may not need to learn them for a while.

The Levels

Simply put, the levels are the dressage-training progression delineated for the purposes of competition. They are a tangible expression of the dressage training scale, or pyramid of training (See the article in the January-February issue of America’s Horse for more on the pyramid). To test the horses’ and riders’ mastery of the training progressions, gaits, paces and movements that are considered skill-appropriate for various progressive stages in training are identified and pieced together in pre-choreographed patterns called dressage tests or tests. Each level is designated by a name. The tests at the various levels are written by the organization that governs those particular competition levels.

Every country that sanctions dressage competition has a national federation that writes and governs its national-level dressage tests and rules. In the United States, the U.S. Equestrian Federation is our national federation, and it’s responsible for Training through Fourth level. The USEF Dressage Committee writes these tests and amends and updates them every four years.

The United States Dressage Federation, which is primarily an educational organization, not a dressage governing body, saw a need for tests that were less difficult than the Training Level, the most elementary USEF level. So the USDF developed Introductory Level as an inviting educational alternative so that novice dressage horses and riders could get their feet wet and familiarize themselves with dressage-show protocol.

If you’re thinking even vaguely about showing, first you need to determine which level is most appropriate for you and your horse. Start by reading through the list of required gaits, paces and movements for each level. (Training through Second levels are discussed below.) If one of the required elements is not a strong part of your repertoire, it would be best to become proficient in the element before showing or to drop down a level.

While you’re tracking your dressage points, track how much you’re earning from AQHA’s Incentive Fund program. If your horse is enrolled, you’ll earn points — and money — for doing what you love: showing your horse. Find out more about the Incentive Fund!

In Germany and some other countries, dressage riders are required to start competing at the lowest level and must earn the right to move up; that’s not the case in the United States. With the exception of certain championship classes and other classes with age and membership requirements, we are free to enter any class we please. Whether this policy is the American way or the road to mediocrity is a subject of lively debate among dressage enthusiasts.

The Levels Explained

The lists that follow summarize the key gaits, paces and movements of the levels covered in “The USDF Guide to Dressage.” Each level consists of two or more tests (patterns), which increase in difficulty somewhat as the test numbers increase. The required elements are listed in the order in which they’re introduced in the tests; the later movements present new challenges.

Introductory Level

The USDF Introductory Level tests aren’t offered at all USEF/USDF-recognized (sanctioned) dressage competitions, but they’re a staple at dressage schooling shows, which are low-pressure affairs designed to give horses and riders valuable competition and educational experience.

Introductory Level is walk-trot only; there’s no cantering. As such, Introductory Level is often ridden in a small dressage arena (20 by 40 meters) because the extra room of the standard arena really isn’t needed.

Key elements:

Medium walk
Free walk
Working trot, rising
20-meter trot circles
Halt through medium walk
Training Level

Almost every dressage show, whether recognized or unrecognized, offers Training Level classes, which are the lowest of the USEF national levels. The biggest difference between Introductory and Training Level is that all Training Level classes include canter work.

Training Level classes may be held in either the standard or the small arena.

Key elements:

Medium walk
Free walk
Working trot (either sitting or riding is acceptable, unless otherwise stated)
20-meter circles in trot and canter
Trot-canter and canter-trot transitions between two letters or at the letter
Halts through the walk are OK
20-meter stretching circle at the trot (rider allows the horse to stretch forward and downward, then takes up the reins at the conclusion of the circle.
One-loop serpentine in trot.
First Level

First Level introduces the lengthening of the stride and some basic lateral work in the form of the leg yield. Serpentines test the horse’s balance, bend and suppleness.

Key elements:

Medium walk
Free walk
Working trot
Trot lengthenings
Trot work is done sitting unless the test states otherwise
Halts from the trot (halts executed through the walk are no longer permitted)
10-meter half circles and full circles in trot
Three-loop serpentines in trot
15-meter canter circles
Trot leg yield
Canter lengthenings
5-second halt in the middle of the test
Change of canter lead through the trot (two or three trot strides before picking up the new canter lead)
One-loop canter serpentine, maintaining the same lead (shallow counter-canter in middle of loop)
Second Level

Second Level is a significant step up from First Level because collection is introduced and with it some more advanced lateral movements. At this level, all trot work is done sitting.

Key elements:

Medium walk
Free walk
Collected trot
Medium trot
Collected canter
Medium canter
Two- and three-loop serpentines in collected trot and canter (canter loops with no change of lead)
Shoulder-in in trot
Rein back (backing up) of three to four steps
Simple changes of lead (change of canter lead through the walk, with just a couple of walk steps [no trotting!] between canter leads)
10-meter circles in canter
Travers (haunches in) in trot
Counter-canter
Stretching circle in canter (horse is expected to stretch forward while remaining round and balanced)
Renvers (haunches-out) in trot
Half-turns on the haunches in the walk
Three-loop serpentine in collected canter with a simple change of lead at every crossing of the center line.
Remember to check out the America’s Horse series on dressage. Upward transitions will be discussed in the March-April issue. And we recommend “The USDF Guide to Dressage” for a more in-depth look at the sport and what it requires of horses and riders.

Good Hands and Bits

Teaching riding lessons for over twenty-five years has shown me a number of things. One being the ability of riders to understand what happens when they pull on the reins, but not the actual reasoning behind it. Over the years, I had the opportunity to work with some wonderful horses mostly because their riders had given up on them when they "ran out of bits that would control" their steeds.

As we see with many traveling exhibitions, the bit really isn't a major player in training the horse. Some examples of folks working bridle-less would include Barb Apple, Pat Parelli, Lynn Palm and others. You can Google these people and more to find more information on the natural horsemanship riding style.

Bits
The Scythian people were riding the horse around 6000 B.C. with bar-style bits made of wood, horn or rawhide. These bar bits were in use before the snaffle and there is good evidence of this before 4000 B.C.

When did the snaffle arrive? The Greek, Xenophon, gave a good description of the snaffle bit and how to use it and this was about 200 B.C. Alexander the Great rode his legendary horse Bucephalus with a snaffle.

Why the history lesson? Mostly so we recognize that bits have been around for a very long time so there may mean that it is their use or misuse is in the hands of the rider.

Pressure Points

Everything we put our horse's heads involve pressure points. These are the places on the horse's head where pressure is applied by the bit or headpiece when the rein is pulled.

The most important of these points is the tongue, because all bit mouthpieces rest on the tongue. If you consider the tongue as a defensive measure, it is a cushioning device to protect your horse from erratic hand movements and jerks on the reins. Because of the cushioning ability, the tongue is an excellent form of communication of things to come -- like a telegraph wire through the reins from you to your horse. Learning to have soft, sensitive hands on the reins is a result of using this pressure point wisely.

The next pressure point are the bars of the mouth, which are the toothless area of the horse's lower jaw between the molars and the incisors. This area is really sensitive because it only has a thin tissue layer over the jaw bone. You'll know if you have applied too much pressure here, your horse will throw his head in the air, in defense of the pain you are inflicting.

The corners of the mouth are the next pressure points, and this is where the snaffle bit's control is located. This area is especially sensitive to a two-handed pull.

The curb grove, located under the lower jaw is where the curb strap rests. With any curb bit, this is where you horse will feel pressure first. How much pressure is related to the length of the bit shank and the diameter of the curb strap or curb chain. Pay attention to what pressure you are using when working with a curb bit.

The nose is another pressure point and is a working point for hackamores and some pincher-bits. The nose is often used for collection and in training young horses with a hackamore or bosal.

The last pressure area on the head is located at the poll which is right behind the horse's ears. This area is located right by the cervical vertebrae and any pressure here is usually accompanied by something in the mouth bringing pressure upward too.

Snaffle Bits

What do you think of when you think about a snaffle bit? If you think it is only a broken or jointed mouthpiece, you may wish to reconsider. Remember the definition of a snaffle working on the corners of the mouth. When you pull the rein, the contact takes place on the corners -- and yes, the angle of the pull also affects this. For example, lowering your hands and applying rein pressure will also depress your horse's tongue. Holdng your hands higher will result in contact with the corner alone, and should result in more cooperation from your equine partner.

One of the beautiful things about a snaffle bit is the equality of pressure and response. This allows you to develop an excellent feel for your horse's mouth. The curb bit, on the other hand, is about 1 to 4 ratio -- or more if your are heavy handed -- and can cause a tremendous amount of damage when used incorrectly.

Curb Bits

Curb bits work off leverage so it follows that the longer the shank, the more severe the pressure. It should also make sense to be judicious about the amount of pressure we are putting on the reins. There are some excellent options in the curb bit realm, the pelham and kimberwicke are good options for starting your horse onto the curb because you can set them to work more like a snaffle. When you are adjusting the curb chain, remember the looser the curb chain, the slower the action of the bit. A good starting point is to be able to slide two fingers under the curb chain.

Good Hands

Three keys to good hands are timing, amount of pull and release of pull. Timing relates to knowing when the horse's feet are in the right position so it is easier for them to achieve what we are asking them to do. Having good hands mean that you as a rider are responsive to timing -- it means you are "listening" to your horse.

The amount of pull is criticial too. Remember, horses are into pressure animals and they will reply to your amount of pull with a similar amount. Start by asking lightly and gradually increasing the request until you get the response you are seeking. Think about riders that show now indication that they are pulling or applying pressure to the horse, yet they get beautiful results. The horse is more comfortable and so is the rider.

Release is an excellent reward for your horse giving you the response you are requesting. That one moment allows your horse to have a moment of freedom in movement. Just a slight opening of your fingers the instant your horse responds is an excellent reward. Overworking and hanging onto the reins is the biggest fault that most riders commit while trying to develop good hands.

Your goal is to have your hands "talk" to your horse and then instantly reward the right response. It is better to ask your horse lightly several times than to drag and yank once. Keep your rein signals less than one second. Brief is better.

Bit Adjustment

How tuned in to your horse's mouth are you? Are you paying attention to what your horse is telling you or are you just doing something because you think you think you should? By having your bit adjusted correctly in your horse's mouth, you will help him be happier and perform better.

What reaction is your horse offering you when you put the bit in his mouth? Is he tossing his head, constantly chewing at the bit, looking at the sky? These can indicate a need for adjustment. I always liked bridles with lots of options for adjustments. Looking at my favorite schooling headstall, I notice that holes are about 1/2-inch apart. This allows for lots of ability to keep the horse comfortable.

You horse doesn't need to "smile" when wearing the bit. If you stand in front of your horse, place your index fingers in th ring of the bit and gently pull down. The mouthpiece should be about 1/2-inch below the corners of the mouth. You horse will then be able to adjust the bit to a level he finds comfortable.

Keep checking and analyzing your horse's responses and reactions to the bridle and adjust as needed. The properly adjusted bridle may be the first step toward correcting your "bit issues" and provide you with a better ride. Most of all, your horse will appreciate your effort.

Links:

Image of Bucephalus

Image Sample Snaffle Bits

No Foot, No Horse

One of the most ignored horse management practices is proper foot care. Proper foot care can also prevent lameness the reduces your horse's usefulness. Practice making foot care a regular part of your horse care routine.

The average owner is capable of most foot care, but seek the help of a professional for corrective shoeing, and disease treatment and control. That being said, know that not all farriers are created equal. Your horse will appreciate your efforts in seeking out a horseshoer that understands the biomechanics of his body. Not understanding how the horse "works" can cause lameness and may even cause permanent impairment.

Over the years, I have seen highly skilled farriers and some that may have found old tools and thought that made a new career for them. The skilled and often gifted farriers continue their education and have a real love for their chosen career path. Finding someone like that doesn't mean that you should ignore your own education. You should learn to evaluate and assess your horse's feet. Teach yourself about the quality, shape, size and overall condition and health of the foot, your horse will appreciate your effort.

Watching horses is part of your educational process. How does your horse stand when he is resting? How does your horse look while grazing? Does your horse always extend the same leg when grazing? If so, this may indicate an imbalance. How does your horse move at all gaits with no rider? These are all great points to start knowing more about your horse than anyone else does, and it is a great place to start in the creation of a great team.

Additional Tips:

Your horse should have his feet trimmed and shod on average every six to eight weeks. When you look at your horse's healthy feet, it is normal for the front and back feet to have a different shape.

Hoof dressings are not all for the same type of conditions. Be sure you are buying products that are suitable to both your horse's hoof and the surrounding ground conditions.

Links:
American Farriers Association
Leg Image
Foot Image

Straight From the Horse's Mouth

Your horse's mouth needs to be in balance. If it is out of sync, it can affect the ability to chew food, accept the bit and move in a relaxed and balanced way. What happens if there are problems?

• Head shaking and tossing
• Refusing to be bridled
• Rearing
• Unable to work on the bit
• Poor transitions and stiffness
• Weight loss, poor coat, anxious behavior
• Drooling
• Colic

Horses that eat hay and grain rather than grazing on grass pastures need more frequent dental work. This is because grass contains silica which naturally grinds down the horse's teeth.

Testing capillary refill time is a good way to tell if a horse is dehydrated or in shock. You can check this by pressing your thumb firmly against the gums just above the front teeth until the skin loses color. Then release your finger and see how long it takes for the gums to regain their normal color.

As horses age, their teeth go from rectangular shaped to triangular.

Check for hidden wolf teeth, aka permanent premolars, that sometimes fail to erupt through your horse's gum. These can be a source of great discomfort for you horse and may be causing problems for both of you.

Video - Inside the Horse's Mouth. A little longer, but interesting view.

Links:
http://www.horsedentist.com/Rebirth%20of%20Equine%20Dentistry.htm
http://www.iaedonline.com/ International Association of Equine Dentistry
http://www.iaeqd.org/ The International Association of Equine Dentistry
http://www.equinedentalacademy.com/ Academy of Equine Dentistry
http://www.amscheqdentistry.com/ American School of Equine Dentistry
http://www.walkermgt.com/AVDF.htm American Veterinary Dental Society

Questions or comments about the mouth? Leave them in the comments.

Image

Official Dog of the State of New Hampshire - Chinook

Very exciting for the Chinook dog breed.

Run Reno Run - Stolen Horse

Saw this today. If you have information, please contact Stephanie as directed below.

Run Reno Run aka Reno (solid black) has been stolen from our place. She is our daughters barrel horse and is missed very much. She was taking along with our 4 year old sorrel gelding. They both are very gentle and great to be around. If you have any information on these two please email diamondbarw@sbcglobal.net or call 918-906-9810. Thank you.

Select Squirrel Facts

Squirrels Facts

• There are over 365 species of squirrels.
• Squirrels usually live alone, but will huddle together in nests during extreme cold.
• Winter activity is usually in the morning, followed by the remainder of the day hanging around the nest.
• Summer activity is usually in the morning, followed by an afternoon siesta, then more foraging a few hours before sunset.
• Acrobatic chasing in late winter is part of the mating ritual.
• Have you heard screeching starting in the spring? Those are baby squirrels -- kittens -- demanding food.
• Typical litter size is 3-4.
• Squirrels can eat their weight in seed in one week. (That explains a lot.)
• Squirrels, like other rodents, have front teeth that keep growing. Squirrel teeth grown six-inches per year and are worn down by eating and gnawing.
• Squirrels can reach a top speed of twenty-miles per hour.
• Squirrels have excellent jumping skills -- six-feet vertically and eight-feet horizontally.
  

For more information: Squirrels

Horse Agility

Here is an interesting look at Agility from the equine perspective. Enjoy.

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